New Toy

Braved the snow on the 5 minute drive to the Cave today with Nodder and Chris. The back of the Cave seemed like the sensible choice considering the wind and the temps so we jumped on the impossible roof project and then Louis Armstrong, a good sesh was had by all. Played around on other stuff then Nodder reminded me of Hocks old project Broken Heart/Trigger Cut. I was never sure about this one but after a play today it climbed very well. It combines possibly my 3 favourite bits of climbing in the cave, the start of Broken Heart, the East Coker move and Trigger Cut. Well psyched for trying this more now. Its probably 7c/+ to get into TC then obviously TC, mega.

Tan-Y-Grysiau

Headed to Tan-Y-Grysiau near Blaenau with CJD yesterday. Had been here maybe 8 years ago with the boys, lots of rock! Didn't know what to expect on the way as we knew there was a lot of snow. I wanted to check out Jordans stellar new line from last year, Flick of the Wrist. The problem didn't dissapoint. Brilliant high overhanging wall with great holds. Unfortunately the crux sloper at the top was wet, and so was the thumb on one of the pinches. Still had a play though, defo one to go back for:

Ther sit start is also immense but absolutely savage, Chris is very keen for it but your talking very big numbers for this one. Also checked out the other hard problems Hippocampus and New Noise.

Manchester Dogs Broke

Popped down to Angel Bay today and to my dismay found the starting left hand jug of Manchester Dogs had broken off. This is one of the old skool Font 8a's in wales and despite being in a hole is pretty classic. In place of the jug hold is a slopeyish crimp. I am pleased to announce that the problem is just as good but a fair bit harder. There was only really one hard move before (the move off the good right side hold). Now it is just as hard to get the right hold and the crux is a bit trickier too. I would say as it was probably soft 8a before its hard 8a now. All we need now is some beast to come and re-climb it.

Homage to the Dyer

Just re-watched this footage of Dyer doing Silk Cut. It really is dismaying how he climbs this, you forget what a beast he is cos he only climbs 3 times a year. Sick man, oh yeah. I know your blushing now Neil reading this. Anyway tough shit you beast.

Craftnant

Back in the day myself and the Cattells did a few cool problems in the Craftnant valley. Yesterday i went back with Floppy to check the place out again. First we tried Danny's unrepeated 7c Grasswind, really cool feature:

We made slow progress, i reckon Chris could do it next sesh though. Then we moved over to my problem Wonderwall, i was keen to try a right hand finish to it but wasn't too optimistic as i find this problem nails even though i originally gave it V7. Anyway i managed to pull one of the finger jugs off it. Chris did the new crux but didn't link it, its probably 7c now. CJD also dropped his shoe down a chasm so had to walk back to the car with his climbing shoe on, schoolboy error!

Cave Addiction

I have been considering attending an addiction class to help me get over my current addiction to the cave. I can just see it now, "i'm Chris, i'm 27 and i'm addicted to a cave full of goat shit in wales". I have been there so much this winter but i'm loving it, it truly is a fuckin great place, so much to do if you like hard climbing. Today after a 3 day break i joined the Scouse masses (apparently they're trying to get the cave extradited to Liverpool but i can't see it happening). I managed to get into Sams Finish three times from Broken Heart which was pleasing. Got the start of BH dialled just a bit rusty and unfit on Sams. Hopefully i'll soon be at that last move redpoint crux again and this times i won't capitulate. Then i worked the Wire again, forgot how good this is and considering how much more wired i seem to have the heel toe clamp on BH these days it could be a goer with some work. The contiuing theme of dropping Pit of Hell with fingers 1 mm from the last slot continues, this time it was Richie Crouch.

Your Christmas Sermon

As another year draws to an end rock climbers everywhere reflect on their climbing achievements and memories of the year. Ticks are important for most climbers but also each year it is important to learn about your aspirations and also how to get the best out of yourself. I have certainly had my best year in terms of ticks in my 12 years on the rocks. For me it was brilliant to find some route form again. The 8b ticks were extremely satisfying but i know its not the limit for me. I think sport represents what i want to focus on in the next few years. I've done a lot of bouldering in the last few years but now cranking hard moves on amazing cliffs is what really appeals. The Diamond seige was a great experience too, in the end i ran out of time but the process of getting fitter on the route and getting high, fighting, giving it everything on such an incredible route was immense! I also got a taste for first ascents and i hope to do a few more in the next year or two, the lines are out there. Training wise i am glad i resurrected the deadhang board and i look forward to getting started on this next year again. I have also learnt the benefits of strategic weight loss, if done correctly at the right time it certainly can give you the edge. I think my biggest mistake of the year was maintaining my work during a period of time when i felt in fantastic shape, i really should have crushed more!
Climbing at your limit is so addictive, once you've felt those endorphins after doing something hard you will crave that feeling until it happens again. After i climbed Halfway on Monday my mind started to wander and i found myself thinking about Director's, would this be possible for me one day? I certainly never thought i'd do Trigger nevermind a low start to it. After all its only nine moves into Halfway and with my kneebars..... And this is the nature of the beast, success is brilliant and its important to enjoy the meaningful ascents but most climbers will always be looking forward, striving to improve. Next year i plan to get into the best shape of my life on routes, i can't wait. Here's to some meaty crushing in 2010!